Day 13,  15^thJan day                             Last post.

How can it be the last day already? All the preparation, booking, foolish anxieties, looking forward to seeing the family, setting off on the adventure, going across Kerala, all coming to an end.  I have very special memories about this item on my bucket list. Bucket list? is this right thinking I wonder.

The morning is sunny and warm. I meet Kieran and my new tour guide, another George. He is middle aged and knowledgeable. First, a few minutes’ walk to the Chinese fishing nets. They are impressive the ideal type photo opportunity. Very heavy, weighted they sink gracefully into the water and are pulled back up by manpower. We are expected. George whispers, ‘you will tip them.’ I whisper back, ‘how much?’ He giggles and says rupees 100 is good.’ ‘OK.’

I am gathered up, shown the net and help let it down into the water. It is heavy. It rests for a minute then we pull it up again and I have caught a mini fish. Photos are taken and we all laugh. I fumble through my rucksack to offer 200R (£2.80.) That brings out more smiles... good.

Next, the Museum. Although we go to the head of the queue, it's busy. We push and get jostled in the doorway. It's in the Matancherry palace, built by the Portuguese in the 16C and given to the Raja of Kochi - generous of them. Small, crowded dark rooms are full of portraits of his relations. One painting turns to watch as you walk by. No kidding, the feet and the face appear to turn from right to left and the eyes follow you. If you don’t believe me go and see it. There are claustrophobic heavy carved wooden palanquins with curtains to transport Ranis about. They must have been very hot and uncomfortable. The crowd gathers round and I am aware of the increasing temperature and our body smells, warm hippos, fish and pee. George takes me into every room. Beautiful wall paintings illustrate the life of Vishnu, his avataras and incarnations. Oh I get it ‘Avatar,’ durr that’s why they were blue.  I begin to hope the next room is the last one. George leaps at some backpackers who are taking photos in total disregard of all the sign stating we MUST not.

We visit the St Francis Xavier's catholic church another present from the Portuguese in 1503 together with their religion. Very hot outside, nice and cool inside.

The morning moves on and the next stop is the laundry. George says the government has ruled that dhobi people, who come from the Harijan caste an unlawful label now, must be paid a good wage. The workers therefore like to stay. The fishermen though are paid very badly and are poor. 

We go out to the washing hanging on the lines. I turn as George carefully unfolds a spotless white hanky which he puts on his head. He loses none of his dignity insisting I notice how washing is fixed in a twisted double line - no pegs. My brain begins to boil.

Inside again the iron is heated on a charcoal box. He invites me to try it and true to my home practice I burn myself, ouch. We both giggle.

As the morning progresses we visit the ancient Paradisi Synagogue in Jew town. I meet Sarah a very elderly Jew who sits embroidering by a shop door. I could do that in Sandgate. A local tourist attraction, Dorcas the elderly ...... (insert your own word.)  

The heat grows and grows beginning to weigh me down. I walk more slowly.  ‘George, I am getting very hot now.’ He looks at me closely and makes a management decision about his timetable. ‘OK Mem, you go in here and see the dragon boat, I am calling the car.’ I walk into the shade and he calls Kieran on his mobile. Thank goodness I don’t have to wait for a palanquin.

Parp, parp, Kieran’s here, we fall into the cool car and guzzle water. I have had enough sightseeing so we return to the hotel. George giggles with delight at his tip. Kieran says, ‘I will be ready at 4.30 tomorrow morning to take you to the airport.’ OK fine, I walk into the restaurant, flop into a chair and order a big bottle of cold water and another of cold strong beer. It tastes like iced Barley Wine. Fried fish in banana leaves, coconut rice and to follow flambéed pineapple in syrup with ice cream makes me feel a lot better. Although it all takes about two hours to  complete it is worth it.

Time to pack and have a swim.

A late dinner in the evening and last half bottle of ‘Sula’ to help me sleep. The restaurant is full. They have run out of tables but do not turn business away. Gradually the spare chairs at my table are politely taken and put up against coffee tables and collapsible tables brought in from the poolside and squeezed in the aisles. All nationalities are talking and enjoying the food which takes even longer because there are only 2 chefs. Wonderful.

Early morning day 14, 16th Jan 2013

I get up at 3.30am and have to wake Kieran up sleeping in the car outside. We drive off through the warm empty streets arriving well early at Cochin Airport. We hug modestly, say goodbye and go our separate ways. I turn towards home.

Goodbye Kerala I have loved seeing you.